Photograph: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Photographs
Virginie Viard’s work at Chanel tends to shrink back from the intense themes favored by her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld: no man-made seashores, no reproduction historic websites — simply garments.
So it is at all times a bit shocking when the inventive director commits to a theme, as she did for Fall 2022. The newest Chanel assortment is centered round tweed — “infinite tweed,” to be extra exact — the home’s signature material used on every little thing from luggage to skirt fits. The difficulty with tweed, although, is that it may be cumbersome, particularly when layered collectively, triply so when layered with thick knits. That appears to have tripped up Viard.
Chanel has confirmed that tweed can be cool and even slightly horny, whether or not carried out up in pastel brights or mini-skirted units. However that wasn’t the transfer for Fall 2022. There are efforts at youthfulness, sure — denim shorts paired with these thigh-high socks and wellies hearkens again to Alexa Chung at Glastonbury circa 2008, and the thigh-high rain boots try playfulness, even when they’re in unappealing colours. (That is so usually a pitfall for Viard, who appears to be drawn to muddied, muted shades.) Low-slung tweed pencil skirts and strapless tweed attire purpose for cool however finally fall flat. Dowdy takes on micro-kitten heels do not assist.
It is a disgrace, as a result of there are actually nice items in right here. Regardless of the tweed theme, Viard does some nice work with leather-based, particularly in a trench model and a pair of chocolate brown cropped pants. (The identical can’t be stated of the shift attire or a pair of pants lower loosely across the hips.) The gown coat that opens the present is beautiful, a nod on the previous that also feels very fashionable. The knits are enjoyable, particularly the outsized cardigans which can look even higher damaged up with a pair of denims. And the blown-out, ’90s model wealthy lady hair, usually held again with a single barrette, is gorgeous.
However total, it was… frumpy. And frumpy can actually work in a nod-wink kind of means, however there isn’t any such enjoyable available right here. Whether or not it is a difficulty with styling or a difficulty with proportions, one thing must be tweaked at Chanel in terms of ready-to-wear runways.
See the whole Chanel Fall 2022 assortment within the gallery under:
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