Picture: Courtesy of Chanel
To say that the shadow of Karl Lagerfeld looms massive over Chanel can be one thing of an understatement. Along with his instantly-recognizable head of white hair (all the time tied again right into a low ponytail) and signature darkish sun shades, headline-making quips and over-the-top runways, he’s arguably probably the most well-known clothier of the final 50 years.
And whereas present artistic director Virginie Viard hasn’t shied away from acknowledging the large legacy of her predecessor and mentor, she’s undoubtedly cast her personal path on the French trend home. Her exhibits, whereas nonetheless blockbuster-level, are extra restrained, her collections extra delicate.
So it was one thing of a shock when Chanel unveiled its Cruise 2022 assortment in Monte-Carlo on Thursday and Lagerfeld was cited as considered one of Viard’s key muses.
“To me, Monaco is a matter of emotions above all. That is Karl, Caroline, Charlotte,” she says within the present notes. (That might be Caroline and Charlotte Casiraghi, members of the Monégasque royal household and longtime pals of the home.) “From very early on, I knew we’d maintain a present there, and extra exactly on the Seashore Resort. Moreover, Karl was dreaming about it. From this magnificent venue, one can glimpse his villa, La Vigie. I’ll always remember the occasions I spent there: terraces and balconies, massive umbrellas, baskets of flowers – a lot magnificence.”
Sofia and Roman Coppola labored collectively on teaser trailers for the gathering — that is Chanel, the Marvel of trend, so after all collections get teaser trailers — putting the items firmly within the context of this jet-set, glamorous locale: We see fashions diving into clear blue swimming pools, racing glossy speedboats throughout the open sea, leaping into quick vehicles, all interspersed with archival images from the model’s previous jaunts in Monaco.
The gathering itself is barely much less glam than all that, as an alternative going for a extra sporty really feel with a wonderful twist.
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“A sporty environment, however not solely,” Viard says. “There are many tweed or silk jumpsuits lined with mild terry material. Many sequins and flowers form embroidered plastrons adorning thinly striped lengthy shirt-dresses with white excessive collars – a nod to Karl – a sequined midnight blue gown, or backless tops worn over wide-cut trousers.”
Chanel’s signature tweed takes the type of race track-ready jumpsuits in flashy reds or pristine whites. The silhouette additionally is available in black denim, however for these not trying to absolutely commit, there’s jogger pants in shiny metallics. Dishevelled leather-based shorts, scorching pants and tweed minis are often styled over sheer black tights in one other nod to Caroline. “The primary time I noticed Caroline was on the seaside in Monaco. She was carrying a draped black gown, very skinny tights and heels,” Viard says.
There is a suite of unfastened and flowy chiffon attire, in addition to striped shirtdresses. Chanel’s Cruise 2022 eveningwear choices embrace slinky, asymmetrical skirts paired with sequined tops or delicate white lace skirt-and-tube-top combos. And it would not be a resort assortment with out swimwear: Black one-pieces are embellished in a method that feels wealthy and even barely formal, together with one with a rhinestone buttoned-placket.
The equipment nod to Monaco’s monied status: miniaudières formed like poker chips and slot machines, tennis luggage each sensible and miniature, Components 1 helmets emblazoned with Chanel motifs, sequined baseball caps with finish-line particulars.
Footwear goes in a couple of completely different instructions, from metallic lamé sneakers to black satin footwear which take their cues from the pointe footwear worn by the Monte-Carlo ballet.
Nonetheless, even with all of the nods to Lagerfeld, Viard’s stamp was throughout this assortment; nothing felt like a Lagerfeld-redux. She has her established silhouettes — louche pants, boxy tops over maxi-skirts, the occasional legging-under-skirt trick — that are all current right here. It was good to see Viard have somewhat extra enjoyable with equipment this season, and there was a pleasure current for Cruise 2022 that shines by means of the garments.
“Monaco is inherent to the historical past of Chanel,” Viard says. “We have now lived so many pleased moments there.”
See the entire Chanel Cruise 2022 assortment within the gallery beneath:
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